A historic moment for the fashion industry, Pull&Bear marked a turning point by walking for the first time on an international runway. On September 20, during London Fashion Week, Inditex’s young fashion label presented a groundbreaking collaboration with emerging designer Marie Lueder, a German creative based in London whose vision is redefining the contemporary codes of menswear. This is part of the initiative NEWGEN, funded by the British Fashion Council. An initiative that aims to support and promote the next generation of fashion talent in the UK through financial assistance, mentorship, and exposure at one of the most prestigious fashion platforms in the world.
The Creative Universe of Marie Lueder
Marie Lueder founded her namesake brand in 2019 as a performative exploration space that questions new masculine identities in a constantly changing world. Her training as a tailor at the Hamburg State Opera provided her with an exceptional technical foundation. And also instilled in her the need to create a deep emotional connection with each personalized piece she produces.
Lueder’s collections represent a fascinating hybrid that fuses sportswear elements with functional aesthetics, all complemented by an obsessive attention to sartorial detail. This meticulousness stems from her education in bespoke tailoring, combined with an unwavering passion for medieval silhouettes that defines the DNA of her creative proposal.
The designer finds her deepest inspiration in the study of medieval armor, motivated by the universal human desire for protection, freedom of expression, and the manifestation of individuality. Her references draw on an annual medieval LARP (Live Action Role Playing) camp she attended during her childhood in Hamburg. As well as the Fasching festival, a celebration rooted in Germanic medieval folklore that continues to be an inexhaustible source of inspiration for her garments and her concept of humanity.
The Power of NEWGEN
The British Fashion Council’s NEWGEN program is considered one of the most prestigious platforms for launching emerging talent. Having catapulted the careers of designers such as Martine Rose, Jonathan Anderson, and Alexander McQueen, it has become one of the most prolific incubators of creative talent in the global industry.
NEWGEN is an initiative that supports the best emerging talent in fashion design, with the goal of building future global high-end brands. Beneficiaries are identified for their creativity, strong aesthetics, and innovative design approach. The program offers financial support, exhibition opportunities, and mentorship to develop critical skills that ensure the future of their businesses.
Under the direction of Sarah Mower MBE, together with the Fashion Business Network and the NEWGEN panel, the program provides one-on-one mentorship and training sessions to assist recipients in developing their business infrastructure. The program encompasses ready-to-wear and accessories, covering all categories such as footwear, bags, hats, and jewelry
Pull&Bear: A Historic Debut
Pull&Bear became the main sponsor of BFC NEWGEN in 2024, with the clear objective of supporting a new generation of designers through its “Canvas for Creativity” initiative. This project brings together emerging designers with the brand’s global infrastructure, creating unique synergies between creativity and commercial reach.
The collaboration with Marie Lueder resulted in a capsule collection of 20 garments and six accessories that explores the medieval imagination through a contemporary lens. The collection masterfully combines experimental silhouettes with urban references and clubbing codes, crafted from technical fabrics such as washed denim, structured knitwear, and transparent nylon, in a palette of earthy and weathered tones.
The proposal, inclusive and genderless in spirit, reflects Lueder’s conceptual aesthetic reinterpreted through Pull&Bear’s commercial perspective. After its presentation on the London runway, the collection was officially unveiled during an afterparty at Pull&Bear’s Oxford Street flagship, inaugurated on September 11.
In short, the collaboration between Pull&Bear and Marie Lueder not only marks a significant step for the Spanish brand on the international stage, but also highlights the crucial role of initiatives like NEWGEN, led by the British Fashion Council. By supporting emerging designers and fostering unexpected collaborations, NEWGEN serves as a platform where established names and new voices intersect, expanding the creative boundaries of the industry. Pull&Bear’s participation reflects how global brands can actively engage with these incubators of innovation to push their own aesthetic and values forward. Through this initiative, the British Fashion Council reinforces its position as a driving force in shaping the future of fashion — one that is more inclusive, experimental, and globally connected.
Written By: Valeria Henao
