Luise Trotter, the designer who has worked for Carven and Lacoste, presented her first collection at Milan Fashion Week. This debut marked her entry into the prestigious fashion house Bottega Veneta, a brand that has returned to the top of the industry under the direction of Matthieu Blazy, who announced his departure last semester. Trotter, along with Dario Vitale, was one of the most anticipated debuts of the season.
Trotter’s collection was not only one of the most awaited in Milan but also one of the most talked about. On September 27, Trotter became one of the first female creative directors at Bottega Veneta, positioning herself as one of the few women to lead a major fashion house. In a world largely controlled by men—though aimed at female consumers—Trotter delivers a debut focused on craftsmanship, reviving past elegance while pointing toward fashion’s future.
Like many women designers, her debut was marked not only by creativity but also by a deep vision of what women truly want to see on the runway and wear in real life.

A HISTORIC DEBUT IN A WORLD OF CHANGE
Considering the recent shifts within the most important fashion houses, Trotter represents 12.5% of the new appointments between 2024 and 2025. Only she and Sarah Burton have taken on the creative direction of a major fashion house in the past two years.
In an industry dominated by men but created for women, viewing Trotter’s debut at Bottega as a “perfect” debut is crucial. Not only because of its quality, but also because it may reopen doors for more women to reach these key positions, proving the importance of knowing and truly understanding women through a female perspective.

INTRECCIATO: 50 YEARS OF CRAFTSMANSHIP
One of the most notable aspects of Trotter’s debut was her celebration of the 50th anniversary of the Intrecciato technique, the woven leather craft that has defined Bottega Veneta.
Although this technique has traditionally appeared in accessories such as bags or footwear, in the Spring/Summer 2026 collection it was applied in a new dimension: 76 prêt-à-porter looks where intrecciato appeared in garments such as coats and bermuda shorts, even when they weren’t made of leather. This innovative use of the technique revealed a fresh, never-before-seen perspective.

ACCESSORIES: THE TRUE DEBUT
In the fashion world, a designer’s real success is often measured by their ability to design desirable accessories, since these generate the highest percentage of a brand’s revenue: fragrances, shoes, handbags, etc.
During her debut, Trotter proved exactly that: innovation with a commercial vision. She reinvented iconic models such as the Cabat and Lauren bags, while also presenting new creations like a crocodile tote bag without a closure and dopp-kit–style pouches for women, styled with lingerie-inspired dresses for the perfect contrast.
Other models, like the “east-west” clutches and slouchy shoulder bags, promise to become some of the most purchased pieces of the upcoming season.

BOTTEGA’S ARTISANAL HERITAGE
Trotter has also kept alive the essence of the Venetian house: craftsmanship. Fifty-nine years ago, its founders, Michele Taddei and Renzo Zengiaro, opened a store in Vicenza to sell elegant, discreet, and top-quality products. Today, that tradition lives on thanks to artisans who continue producing in Italian workshops.
Since joining the brand, Trotter has worked to highlight what has been lost: the essence of design. Unlike Matthieu Blazy, Trotter’s show was presented in a sober, distraction-free setting, allowing the audience to focus solely on what matters most to the house: design.
Her pieces were not only creative and meticulously executed but also functional, a characteristic often forgotten in contemporary luxury. This positions her as a designer who truly understands what is needed: functionality, freedom, and a feminine perspective in the arts.

A FEMININE VISION, AN URGENT NEED
The need for a female perspective has never been greater. In luxury, this perspective remains rare. Trotter appeals to that feminine legacy the brand had in its beginnings, and her collection reflects the need to be free as a woman. The importance of functionality, and the desire for clothing to be a tool of expression and empowerment.
Trotter dedicated this collection to Laura Braggion, the first woman to lead Bottega Veneta’s creative team. She explained:
“I imagined her journey, her freedom of being the archetypal Italian woman, moving to New York and living that experience. It was a liberation for her, and that’s what I wanted to convey.”

IMPACT: WHAT’S NEXT FOR BOTTEGA
The impact of Luise Trotter at Bottega Veneta is yet to be seen. It cannot be guaranteed that the brand’s growth will continue, but it can be affirmed that this new chapter represents a milestone for the industry.
Her debut was not only elegant and commercially sound, but it also proved that Trotter understands women, the market, and the current cultural moment. In an industry aimed at women but dominated by men, her vision provides a new direction: faithful to craftsmanship, to the brand’s history, and, above all, to the real needs of the present.