The news fell like a silent bombshell in the fashion industry: Y/Project, one of the most influential houses in contemporary design, has officially ceased to exist. After fourteen years of a trajectory marked by experimentation, irony, and a bold deconstruction of clothing, the brand founded by Yohan Serfaty and Glenn Martens, which closed approximately four months ago, is bidding a complete farewell: an archive collection sale during Paris Fashion Week, the proceeds of which will be used to support emerging designers. The avant-garde label, which closed earlier this year, will sell over 300 rare pieces during Paris Fashion.
From Origins to Establishment
Y/Project was born in 2010 at the intersection of two visions: the conceptual sensibility of Moroccan designer Yohan Serfaty and the architectural training of Belgian Glenn Martens. In its early years, the brand focused exclusively on menswear, notable for its structural approach, use of fine materials, and almost sculptural sobriety. However, after Serfaty’s death in 2013, Martens assumed creative direction and transformed the brand’s DNA without betraying its essence.
That same year, he introduced a women’s line, opening the door to a universe of possibilities. Martens’ vision was immediate and powerful: to reinterpret classic dress codes, irony, and a deep awareness of the body and space.
For Martens, a shirt wasn’t just a shirt: it could transform, twist, wrap around itself. Jeans could have three waistbands; a dress could hide several silhouettes in a single garment. Conceptual yet accessible, experimental yet deeply human.
The Martens Era
Under Glenn Martens’ direction, Y/Project established itself as one of the most influential cult labels of the 21st century. Its unisex approach and penchant for playful deconstructivism appealed to a generation of consumers seeking more than just fashion: They saw it as a tool for freedom.
The brand played with the concept of the absurd. From middle-finger gloves to outrageous jewellery, crooked jeans and asymmetrical silhouettes, Y/Project dared to poke fun at the establishment without sacrificing sophistication. Its success stemmed from the fact that this irreverence was, in fact, a form of creative freedom. And they created a cult of fans who adored the brand. Martens established himself as a great designer, and Y/Project was the brand (along with Diesel) that helped him rise to the Maison Margiela.
The brand stood out not only for its individual approach, but also for its ability to collaborate without losing its identity. Among its most memorable partnerships are those with Jean Paul Gaultier, UGG, FILA, and Melissa.
The partnership with Jean Paul Gaultier, for example, was a meeting of two kindred spirits: both designers have explored the body and gender from a playful and transgressive perspective.
With UGG, the brand reinterpreted the most banal footwear into an object of sculptural desire. These collaborations not only expanded its reach but also demonstrated that conceptual fashion can also be commercial without losing its soul.
Aesthetically, Y/Project focused on revaluing classic garments, transforming them into unexpected pieces. It was a brand that reinterpreted the past to design the future, challenging the idea of “beautiful” and embracing the complex, the ambiguous, and the ever-changing. The house was one of the great exponents of avant-garde aesthetics.
The Beginning of the End
Y/Project’s decline began in June 2024 with the death of Gilles Elalouf, co-founder and key figure in the company’s structure. His death destabilized both the financial and organizational aspects of the brand. Months later, Glenn Martens announced his departure, marking a point of no return.
Without its creative director and the absence of a figure who could maintain the delicate balance between art and business, the firm was overwhelmed by circumstances. Despite public affection and critical respect, financial and structural challenges ultimately put an end to one of the unique offerings on the contemporary scene. In January 2025, Y/Project officially closed its doors. Y/Project couldn’t find a stable buyer and couldn’t survive in the world of traditional fashion houses.
A Farewell with Purpose
Nine months later, the industry still mourns its passing. However, true to its disruptive spirit, Y/Project isn’t going away quietly. During Paris Fashion Week, from October 4 to 6, a major charity sale and auction will be held at the VS boutique.
The closure of Y/Project marks the end of an era in which fashion stopped taking itself so seriously. Martens and his team demonstrated that design can be rigorous without being rigid, that elegance can coexist with irony, and that experimentation is not at odds with emotion.
